The Perfect 3 Days in Paxos
Three harbour villages, a million olive trees, cliffs full of sea caves and the almost tropical water of Antipaxos — a small island that rewards doing very little.
Best time to go: May–June or September (many places shut in winter). Getting around: Paxos has no airport — fly to Corfu (CFU) and take the ferry. The island is tiny; boats, taxis and a scooter beat the sparse bus. Bring cash: ATMs are few. Once your dates are in, Tripwise can search car hire in one tap.
Day 1 — Gaios
Morning — the waterfront. Paxos arrives gently. Gaios is the capital: a Venetian-flavoured square opening onto a harbour sheltered by two green islets, with caiques tied up along the quay.
The islets. Facing you are Agios Nikolaos, with its fort and monastery among the cypresses, and little Panagia. A water-taxi across is a pleasant twenty minutes of nothing much.
Lunch — Taka Taka or Vasilis. Both are Gaios stalwarts for grilled meat and Greek staples in a courtyard; Carnayo is the one to book for fish by the water.
Evening — Mongonissi. A short hop south to the island's one proper sandy beach, with a taverna that sometimes has live Greek music. Otherwise: an ouzo on the Gaios quay and an early night.
Day 2 — the boat day
Morning — the west-coast sea caves. The island's spectacular side faces the open Ionian: sheer white cliffs pierced by caves and blue grottoes, with the Ortholithos rock pillar standing offshore. Day boats and small self-drive hires both do the run.
Midday — Antipaxos. The tiny island to the south has two beaches, Vrika and Voutoumi, whose water is a startling Caribbean turquoise. Both have a taverna; neither has much else.
Afternoon — Erimitis cliffs. Back on Paxos, drive or walk out to the Erimitis cliffs on the north-west shore for the island's best sunset, with a low sun turning the rock face orange.
Dinner — Lakka. Round the day off in Lakka, the sheltered northern bay full of masts, where the tavernas sit right on the shingle.
Day 3 — Loggos, olives & a walk
Morning — Loggos. The prettiest of the three villages: a curve of pastel houses, a handful of tables at the water's edge, and an old olive press building on the quay. Dodo's Garden and Nassos are both good here.
Midday — the olive groves. Paxos is essentially one vast, ancient olive grove — dry-stone walls, Venetian-planted trees and abandoned presses hidden along the inland lanes. Any of the marked footpaths will do.
Afternoon — Tripitos Arch. A short walk from the Ozias road brings you out onto a natural stone arch high above the sea — no railings, tremendous view, and usually nobody else.
Last swim. The island's coves are pebble rather than sand — Kipiadi, Kipos and Marmari take a walk or a boat, and are all the better for it.
Best beaches on Paxos
- Vrika & Voutoumi (Antipaxos) — the turquoise pair, a short boat ride south.
- Mongonissi — the closest thing to a sandy beach on Paxos itself, with a taverna.
- Kipiadi & Kipos — pretty east-coast pebble coves reached on foot or by boat.
- Levrechio & Marmari — small, sheltered and easy from Loggos.
- Note: Paxos is a pebble-and-cove island; if you need broad sand, plan the Antipaxos day.
Where to eat
- In Gaios: Taka Taka and Vasilis for the classics; Carnayo for fish on the quay.
- In Loggos: Dodo's Garden and Nassos, both a few steps from the water.
- Also worth it: Karkaletzos for grills, Rosa di Paxos for something Italian-leaning.
🏨 Where to stay
Gaios for ferries, shops and the most choice; Loggos if you want the prettiest village; Lakka for a sheltered swimming bay and sailing crowd.
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🚗 Getting around
Distances are tiny, but a scooter or small car (or a hired self-drive boat) gets you to the coves and viewpoints the bus misses.
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